
Before the day heats up, Ethan and I slip on our Bogs, still caked with mud from the mouth of the Kenai. We inch our way down the steep incline behind our house. Ethan marches confidently ahead of me. His raspy voice bounces between the trunks of oak trees, “Where did the Mommee deer go?”

Thomas had left hours ago for his first day of work. On our way back to the house from Kyra’s bus stop, a white-tailed deer froze in the middle of the street studying our every move. Ethan and I stared at our first animal sighting in Virginia. Then, the deer flicked her head and two fawns appeared out of the woods. The three of them ran into our backyard with their tails raised, white underside flickering.
Still in our pajamas, we follow the deer into our backyard and check out the areas that had been underwater just a few days ago. We are outside for no more than five minutes when Ethan screams “Spider” and hides behind my back.
Nearly every tree is linked by fine strands of spider silk. Some hang elaborate orb webs, glistening with dew. Others are so fine; you can only see the fat body of a spider twisting in the wind.
Putting on a brave face for my son, I use my camera bag and fling it ahead of me in hopes of taking down some of these webs to create a path for us. The hike is not fun. We’re brushing whispers of webs across our faces. Our feet trip over roots and mushrooms. At one point, I turn around to check on Ethan and the boy has one tiny mosquito on his forehead and another one on his neck.
With arms folded across his chest and his lower lip sticking out and a red bite swelling to the size of a nickel on his head, Ethan says, “Mommee, let’s not EVER do this again.”
Back in the house, Ethan deals with our setback by slipping on his Batman suit. While I’m scratching irritably at three new bites on my back and arms, he sits down and starts his daily routine.

I wish adults could adapt that easily, too. My mentor, Elaine Abraham, Naa Tláa (clan mother) of the Yéil Naa (Raven Moiety), K’ineix Ḵwáan (people of the Copper River Clan) from the Tsisk’w Hít (Owl House), encouraged me to “feel the earth. If you go into the woods and just sit there and rub your hands up and down on a tree or put your hand on the soil, there’s warmth. The spirit of the land is warm. You can make connections with the earth anywhere anytime because today we are traveling people. Now, we can adapt. You have to have a real strong spirit to adapt.”
Looking out my ceiling to floor windows at the maze of webbed trees, I can now appreciate the strong spirits of my military friends, who had to leave Alaska. Keilah Frickson, who moved to Wisconsin, last year, says she misses “the smell of the mist on the mountains on cool, rainy days, the texture of the landscape, the road trips through breathtaking vistas, and the constantly changing moods of the mountains.”
Alaska taught her to slow down and take breaths regularly. “I tried things I never thought I would do, and I loved it! The broad, ruddy foundation of the Chugach range still grounds me. The fierce winds whipping off of the ocean and through my hair still remind me that I can weather any challenge in life. The cool mountain air still helps me stay calm under pressure. The muddy bottoms of every shoe and sandal I wore in Alaska still remind me that ‘it's just dirt and it won't hurt anything.’”
The Conaboys, who left in 2007 for Japan and currently reside in Massachusetts, still fill their bellies with Alaska Amber, salmon, and halibut. Jed has managed to return to Alaska every summer on business trips and charter a boat with his squadron.
The Registers, who left in 2008 for Florida and currently reside in Texas, say that Alaska is their “measuring stick” for every place they travel. “Plus, our first child was born there. We will always have a connection to Alaska, especially through her.”
I know that eventually I must adapt too. After all, I have survived the death of my mother, brother, both sets of grandparents, and my father-in-law. And I will always have to chase down my Alaskan babies, who ablate grief in seconds.

But for now, change is not my friend.
A loud THUMP-thud-thud-thud skips across our roof and lands on our deck.
“What’s that?” Batman asks.
“It’s an acorn,” I tell him about every hour, when this disturbing sound echoes through the house and makes my heart skip.
“You want me to stop it?” Batman throws two punches into the air.
“I wish you could,” I answer. “I wish you could.”
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